– it is quite distressing to hear such things – in little pauses of time when she goes about her housekeeping or we are waiting to go out I am reading the Diable ? which I had long wished to peruse and find as entertaining as I imagined, but the wickedness is quite awful and the more so as from what I hear of real life this picture of voice seems not to be exaggerated – how can I be amused with such a book, and yet I am. We had the happiness of going to a shop this afternoon, almost the only one not connected with the gentleman with the large connection, and there saw many pretty things and bought the prettiest ? little flowers just arrived from France and very cheap, thence we proceeded to call on Mrs Murphy who lived very far to the East. I was quite surprised at the extent of the town. We found the lady and her daughter Dolorita in a dishabille which formed rather a contrast to the elegant costume in which they had called on us and yet there were several visitors when we arrived and they seemed quite prepared to receive company. The younger lady's dress was the most remarkable, a rusty old black silk with short sleeves and a white handkerchief pinned tight over her shoulders with her hair all pulled back looking as if just released from the confinement of a nightcap but she has a nice good-humoured, though not very refined or intellectual expression and looks like a very respectable under-nursery-maid. The conversation, after the weather had been duly discussed, turned principally on old houses, there being very ancient one on the first constructed in the town and particularly dirty and uncomfortable with no roof and the rafters all consequently visible which would be very well if the rest of the building did not agree with its dilapidated appearance. There was a bye-conversation too which I did not hear in which the ladies was discoursing to poor Mrs M on the new cares and duties she was soon to undertake but she says this kind of sympathy with her coming troubles is always expresses before gentleman or not as the case may be and in consideration of the same we left her to rest while we went to walk in the Concordia, a little Plaza with flowers along the walks, a miniature Plaza, Arcadian, but not so nice to walk in on account of the sluch which here is even more abundant than in other parts – the want of water seems the greatest inconvenience they have here – it is sometimes so scarce that people come to beg a little as the greatest charity. We returned for Mrs H: and Mrs Murphy at our departure, thinking me I suppose the eldest, offered me the disposition of her house, which is a form gone trough to all strangers but I could only bow and grin, which however I suppose was enough. We sat a little on the Plaza and looked at the stars which are very bright and pretty and learnt Spanish from Mr Hamilton till Mr & Mrs Bartlett joined us and sat with us. Mr Bruce not visible how very rude. I suppose he is beginning to be afraid of the effect of his compliments and attention on me. I don't think he need tho' I certainly don't dislike him nearly so much as I did – he amuses me exceedingly and he is not vulgar and if he would shave his beard he would not be ugly, but he is uncouth still. Mr H. went to bed for an hour after tea and all but Mrs H. and I were reading so we were very quick and happily retired before 11. but we are always very quick in the evening for we both are so sleepy that it is with the utmost difficulty we can rouse ourselves sufficiently to answer when spoken to – retiring at midnight agrees not with us.

Tuesday 25^th – Morning as yesterday till Mr & Mrs H took us shopping and we bought flowers, gloves and ribbons at a very good French shop where we were served by an unhappy maiden who was been crossed in love and still looks dolorous though engaged now to another man. But though the things were pretty and nice there seems a great discomfort attending shopping here for the people seem to be perfectly indifferent whether they sell it not and it is with the greatest difficulty that we can persuade them to shew us things. It's quite funny to see shopkeepers with so little ? and the failing seems quite general. Poor Mrs Hamilton was very tired and we too wished for a little repose but our lazy intentions were frustrated by Mrs Davidson who paid a long visit – she is the only Englishwoman in the town and being married to an Englishman it might be supposed that such a family of country people would be a comfort to Mrs H. but she does not look more promising than the generality of the Spanish and not near so likely to be friendable as Mrs Murphy who is really a very nice woman. But this Mrs D has a lamentable want of ? and is not particularly prepossessing or superior in appearance or manners – to be sure, poor woman she expects almost daily to make an increase to her already numerous family which does not tend to improve a persons appearance generally, tho' it does in Felecia's case who looks far prettier, more dignified, more elegant, almost than I ever saw her in Madeira, but she's one in a thousand. When this lady was gone it was time to dress fro dinner at which was also present a young Don called Sisto, said to be very handsome but not much to my taste – very black hair, eyes, moustaches and beard but not fine features or intellect apparently. He is not an eligible, having two brothers, one older than himself and his father the Count ? still living. He appears to be quite a tame cat in the house though they live at Oratava. I don't think he is a more reputable one than poor Jacinto except the Don before his name. I had after dinner the luxury of a little repose and was not called till 6. to go out with Mrs Hamilton who took us the prettiest walk we have yet been along the wash with the northern mountains consequently before us the whole way. I think a very pretty sketch might be made thereabouts with some houses there are, but Bella prefers the views of the town, turning her back upon the hills which are infinitely prettier than any that can be seen within two miles from Senechal. Bella rushed to bed immediately after tea, Mrs Bruce to the reading rooms which is a favourite resort, and Mr & Mrs Hamilton reading Byron together so I was left to my own meditations which were sufficiently interesting to keep me from falling asleep.

really is so very very hot and the mosquitos are very troublesome that I shall hardly be sorry when the time arrives for our departure to the other and cooler side of the Island – and the Hamilton's though they are extremely kind and I feel extremely grateful are not exactly people who improve on acquaintance or whom one can feel very sorry to part from for they are neither wise nor good so that however pleasing and agreeable their affection for each other and kindness to us and her pretty face and pretty manners I cannot feel much esteem for or confide in them. I am afraid in some respects we shall find ourselves out of the frying pan into the fire with the Smiths but at any rate they are clever which is always a comfort. We called for Mrs Hamilton on our return and Mr Bruce joined us on the Plaza where we sat down for a long time and he talked to Bella and me for in spite of the much greater notice I have taken of him than she has he likes her quite as well if not better than me. Its very hard she won't let me cut her out now. But the fact is I believe that the poor man has been so long out of the habit of studying and comparing young ladies that he cannot distinguish between us – but although a trio instead of a tete a tete we were rather amusing and talked again of journals which led us on our return to bring forth ours of which we read such parts as we judged proper in order that he and Archie might take a lesson and gain some insight into the best method of proceeding but I fear our arguments are vain and that he will not be persuaded to keep one – I wish he would. I was so very sleepy they evening that reading being the prevailing order of occupation I took my book to the open window where I alternately looked out at the stars and the ships, slept and read, but fortunately nobody was “up” to winning a pair of gloves.

Tuesday 29^th – The shops are all open today and Mr Hamilton at breakfast said that he would be ready to go out with us at 10. this interval I employed in finishing the book I had began last night. Madame Cottins Claire D' Albe and I never have I perused as wicked and disgusting novel. How utterly devoid of shame and decency must the women have been who could write it and its almost as bad of me to read it but I couldn't stop in the middle and such obvious filthy wickedness cannot do much harm, in spite of the passionate and beautiful writing which would be very fascinating were the subject and sentiments less revolting. We went to Tirondas the principal of the newly opened shops and one of the first in the town and here we had the comfort of being civilly treated but were sorry not to be able to make many purchases. We bought a very pretty silk shawl which we expect will be highly approved and two waistbands for the children and at some smaller shops we procured some flowers and ribbons and only returned at 12. it was so hot I felt quite sick but recovered after luncheon sufficiently to write this and read with comfort and as Mr Hamilton had ordered dinner an hour earlier in order that we might have time for our walk I did not like to refuse going altho' I had some remains of headache so at 10 minutes to 5 we set forth accompanied by Mr Bruce who asked leave to come and shew us the way leaving Bella to make caps and walk on the house tops with Mrs Hamilton and I was very glad I had not been lazy for I enjoyed the walk immensely and soon lost my headache. We walked for 20 minutes on level ground and were half an hour more climbing the mountain which was not so steep as the mountain road tho' not so well paved and Mr Hamilton and Mr Bruce declared he had much hopes of my being able to accomplish the ascent of the peak – so have I. At the top we of course stood some time to admire the view of the town which we saw to great advantage for although the country all round is very barren there are a few fig trees just close to the town and a number of pretty white houses, steeples and windmills must always form an agreeable prospect. Then we walked for some time along the water course which is entirely covered over and in some places so narrow that it makes one feel rather nervous. I had no idea from the manner I had heard it spoken of that it was a work of such magnitude and I was quite surprised to find anything so like the Rabaçal, not certainly in beauty for the mountain are very ugly barren and small but it is upwards of two leagues in length and the greater part cut through the live rock. In two places for a considerable way the mountain is pierced through the middle and the darkness is quite awful. Mr Hamilton could give me very few particulars but I believe it was only completed about 15 years ago, tho’ commenced much earlier and by whom it was done I cannot tell. The course of it is a little river up in the mountains but they had neither of them been there and it is the only means of supplying the town with water. We returned by another way being guided by a little boy, Mr Bruce having discovered that he knew no more about the road than Mr Hamilton and it was a fortunate that we had someone to direct us for the path was so invisible that we should infallibly have lost our way without him. It was down an entirely perpendicular hill of loose slippery earth, so that it was not very easy walking but all the better training for the Peak where, however, I shall not have Mr Bruce to help me, but probably there will be someone as strong. Poor Mr Hamilton was so tired lagging behind all the way so that I was very glad to have some other assistance besides him. It was moonlight before we reached the good road and nearly 7 before we arrived at home, but I was not the least tired and sat up working some time after tea. I think there must be something invigorating in the air here for I should have been tired with such a walk in Madeira even with the thermometer below 76.

Wednesday 30^th – I worked with Mrs Hamilton in the morning and fell asleep on my bed in the afternoon, Bella very sick all day and I nursing her and as I was rather sick too I was not sorry for the excuse for not going out to walk and retiring soon to rest. Bella must certainly be quick and get better or how is she ever to get up the Peak. I have not mentioned our numerous conversations, principally at meals, with the gentleman, touching this expedition – they have both performed it – Mr H more than once so they are able to tell us all particulars and all the difficulties, the principal of which seems to proceed from the quality of the air which at such a height is naturally very much rarefied, and Mr Bruce declares makes people feel sick, cross and headachy but altogether I feel ? than discouraged from what they tell me and I can’t by any means despair.

Tuesday, October 1^st – Bella still sick in bed. I finished Mackenzies Man of Feeling which I should have thought to be an imitation of Sterne but I suppose it is not – it’s very pretty – and then I wrote to Julia and this and looked at pedlars baskets. In the evening to the Mole with Mr & Mrs Hamilton then to the Praça whence I returned so sick that I was obliged to retire early.

Friday 2^nd – So sick I could do nothing but read Delphim though infinitely shocked therewith – evening ditto of yesterday. I suppose the heat, sour bread, ? biscuits, tough meat, high partridge etc are beginning to take effect altho’ we have left off the sour bread which I think must however resume or starve. A variation from yesterday evening was some visits Mrs H and I paid, Bella being still too sick. The first to the Intendentes lady and the second and third to the wife and daughter of ? the shopkeeper of whom we had the other day bought a pair of gloves but they are nevertheless very respectable people and seem also more sensible than the generality. They called on us yesterday which I omitted to mention and were then magnificently dressed in black satin mantillas and fans, but today they were only just decent. The married daughter we called on first and the proceeded to the mothers where after we had been some little time arrived Miss Helenas ?, who looked very cool and composed and so did she – she is remarkably pretty and if dressed with common taste would be a very nice-looking girl with a very good figure – but with an ugly ill made gown, a red silk handkerchief tucked into her apron and a nasty little collar, who could appear to advantage. Her ? appearance is gentlemanly but she is said to be in love with an other man and scarcely condescends to be civil to this one – oh what a set ? Mr Hamilton joined us as we left the house.

Saturday 3^rd – I finished Delphine in the drawing room while Mrs H worked. It is not so disgusting as I had expected but more impious and profane than I could have conceived possible and after lunch I continued my letter. Still no sign of Mrs Smith, I am afraid he must be worse and we shall have to endure the heat and the mosquitos some time longer, the prospect of which does not give me much pleasure I confess. In the evening I walked with the Hamiltons on the Mole then sat in the Plaza between Mrs H and Mrs B and the gents, they talking tete a tete and I not very comfortable, the mingled odours of bad cigars and rancid oil not tending to make my head ache less. We worked in the evening. Mr Bruce has generally the bad taste to prefer the society at the reading rooms to ours so our evening are generally rather slow. Mrs H going to sleep on the sofa and Archie and Robin and Mr H ? or either silent or talking nonsense.

Sunday 4^th – We were so happy as to be left in peace the whole day. Being tormented neither by mosquitos or visitors as we reposed in our beds with our ? drawn. I read Paleys Natural Theology and did not find myself less able to understand and enjoy it for having read Delphine the day before. Indeed, I think its almost worth while to read bad novels for the sake of the heightened pleasure on thereby feels in the perusal of a good and reasonable book. I was very anxious to shirk the Plaza but Mr Hamilton seemed so determined that it would be good for me that I allowed myself to be persuaded to go on condition that I might keep on my boots. So I sat in the little garden with Bella till moonlight when Mr H having left his wife on the Plaza called for me and we walked up and down for some time and then I sat with Anita who only appears in public on Sunday because she finds it slow if there is no ?. after tea I would willingly have read in peace but they would talk so incessantly that it was impossible so I came to my room as if to bed. Poor people; what a melancholy thing not to be able to read tranquilly at least on Sunday evening. We were all day in astonishment at hearing and seeing nothing of Mr Smith whose sickness we suppose must be increased.

Monday 5^th – Very busy finishing my letter to Julia and Bella’s to Mama to go by the ? via Cadiz and at 10 we had the happiness of hearing Mr Smith’s voice and rushing out to meet him he having started at 29 minutes to 6 from Oratava. I do not remember him the least. He does not look so sick and not nearly so pretty as I expected but very nice and making no end of apologies for his unpunctuality. I am very glad he is come – it will be so delightful to live with rational, sensible people once more and that they are musical will not be a disadvantage. He was out shopping all day with Mr Hamilton so we saw nothing of him except at dinner and we packed and sat with the lady it being the last day. Not that we had anything particular to say – all the topics of conversation being exhausted – a melancholy state of things to be able to talk of nothing but facts. Mr Bartlett called to ask us to drink tea that they might hear Mr Smith’s opinion of their piano and three little Davidsons came to pay a visit – Janas, the eldest, and intelligent child, much amused with some illustrations of Esops Fables and the explanations thereof. About 7 we all proceeded to the Consuls and found them all sitting in the end drawing room which happily had a window open, of which however they seemed such afraid and cautiously avoided sitting where they could feel any air. We amused ourselves looking at the lady’s album or rather scrap book and some ancient annuals till tea was ready when we marched two and two into the dining room where was a long table covered with fruit to which we sat down after being compelled to make ourselves half sick with quantities of apple and grape sweetmeat with which we were allowed to devour small pieces of bread handed round. The tea and coffee were poured out but such tea! We could not drink it and when in despair we asked for water we found it to be equally undrinkable – and now all the preliminaries concluded I was luxuriating in the expectation of again hearing music but was rather disappointed for the piano was tuned a note 11/2 below concert pitch and Mr Smith’s ear is so exquisitely fine that he could not play with any comfort and only just touched the noted enough to make one long for more and then I was told to play and as I could not get off I was obliged to sit down and play Beethoven which seemed sufficiently ludicrous after Mr Smith but they fortunately had never heard the waltzes before and I did not murder them sufficiently to make him think them ugly and when I had done he asked me if I had brought any duets which I though very encouraging. Mrs Bartlett then sang and played accompanied by her mothers castanets and her waltzes on the piano. It is a great pity she has had no instruction for she was evidently a great turn for music and as far as I can tell plays in time and tune. She was behaving splendidly to her husband and did not scold him once. Poor Mrs H was horribly bored and the others except Mr Bruce not much less so. He thinks I play very nicely. So we returned about ten and after drinking some wine and water as we had no tea we retired to rest.

Tuesday 6^th – The bell was rung at six in order that we might be ready at half past seven and we were very punctual and ready to start by eight but they were so long packing the two horses and dawdling about. I know not wherefore we were not under weigh till much past nine. Bella in a hammock and I riding a very strong little pony which carried me delightfully. I cannot say I felt much sorrow at parting with the Hamiltons though I cannot but I feel most grateful for their exceeding kindness to us – but it is unsatisfactory to find that at the end of three weeks our mutual knowledge and liking remain exactly the same as the first day. They I imagine are people to be known immediately and they haven’t thought it worth while to take the trouble to know so I really should not the least sorry to know I should never see them again. But with Mr Smith I do hope it will be different – at any rate we much like and admire him for he is most charming and he is so kind and condescending, without being the least patronizing that I cannot help hoping that he may like us. He very soon began talking about his children as he said he wished to prepare me for many things I might find strange in his education of them and so he explained to me his theory which is, that children should be taught nothing nor be allowed even to learn anything that they cannot entirely understand, consequently that all ideas of religion, all knowledge of the existence of a God should be studiously excluded from their minds – all fairy tales, ghost stories, everything intangible, insensible, carefully concealed from their knowledge- much of this I could not but think very wrong and the idea of so systematically disobeying the command to train up a child in the way he should go, is painful, and I told him all I thought about it at which he seemed not the least displeased but on the contrary said it was a luxury to talk to me after the melancholy lack of conversation he is accustomed to, and he gave me all his reasons and his arguments are undoubtedly very plausible and the way he talks very delightful but still I hope he will never bring me to believe it can be right when “out of the mouth of babes and sucklings God has ? praise” what right has he to think himself wiser than Solomon. But he is very clever and in all minor matters his views of education seem as perfect as any mans can possibly be an I am quite charmed with all he told me about them and his children undoubtedly must be very superior to common children, partly from their natural capabilities and partly from those capabilities having been turned to the best account – not that Carlito has been taught very much for two years that is since he was 4 years old he has been taught nothing but allowed to run quite wild in consequence of reading a certain book which alarmed Mr Smith about the child’s health. On the road we turned round occasionally to look at the view of Santa Cruz which is rather fine and at laguna we stopped. It is about 5 miles from S. Cruz and the first town that was built in the Island, now the seat of the Bishopric. We put up at a ? and then proceeded to walk through the town and look at the Cathedral, from the tower of which as it was ? steps high, we had an extensive view of the barren plain of Laguna. On returning to the ? we had ices and washed our hands in a room, what luxury, and then proceeded on our way for nearly 10 miles when we again stopped to walk to a deliciously cool wood with a stream running through it called the Aqua Garcia which was most refreshing after the dusty roads and burning sun we had been exposed to. One such resting place was the town of La Motanga which we reached about half past four and again put up a ? and dined on food we had brought, waiting on ourselves in a very primitive manner, but still an inn is a luxury we did not expect to meet. It is a little miserable town and derives its name from a daughter of the Spaniards by the Guanches, and another town called Victoria – a little further on from a contrary event. We were all this time continuing our conversation only interrupted to look at various views which increase in beauty as we leave the ugly barren uninteresting Santa Cruz and approach the cultivated and magnificently beautiful Oratava. The road was excellent the whole way as is proved by the fact that Mr Smith when alone gallops almost incessantly. We were obliged to walk almost all this time on account of the hammock which the ? nevertheless carried wonderfully well being occasionally relieved by chance passers by who seemed to like the fun. But we did not only talk of education although we continually return to it for it seemed to give him as much pleasure to explain as me to listen but talked much of music, of Buttlers Analogy which he says gave him more trouble to understand than Newton’s ‘, and many like interesting things. He says, from the little he heard last night that he perceives I have not a sledge-hammer touch but very much the reverse and he talks to me as if he knew I liked music and he is so fond of teaching and will really, I believe, teach me. I do not feel at all afraid – not near so much as Mr ? – partly I think because I feel that he knows just exactly my musical capabilities i.e. that I really love music and that I have taste and a good finger as far as it goes but that my knowledge and execution are moderate. He has already a pupil just my age Clementine Gollway who can play the notes of Beethove’s Symphonies which I cannot and never shall probably but he likes my playing best. Mr B Smith, bye the bye is very much smitten with a younger sister of this Clemetina and will, Mr Smith thinks marry her. He had never heard of the existence of Miss Hougton – and now being arrived within ten miles of our destination the clouds had been quite thick before prevented me seeing a magnificent view of the Peak rolled away and allowed us to see it in all its glory and yet I felt almost disappointed – from the extreme clearness of the atmosphere it appears much nearer, consequently much less huge than it really is, and the range of mountains which bound the valley of Oratava and appear immediately in its front solitary dignity and grandeur as I had expected. Still, it is very huge and the idea of our climbing it an illusion speedily dissipated by common sense. We must abandon all hopes of putting such an extravagant plan into execution and content ourselves with the ? the Canadas and another place where we are to have a very fine view. Unfortunately the sun was setting as we approached the Valley of Oratava and we could only in the cloudy moonlight see enough to regret we could not see more and we were both getting so tired that we could hardly have enjoyed it as we ought and we were delighted when at half past 7 we stopped dismounted and found ourselves greeted by Mrs Smith – if it is agreeable to see two people of moderate powers of capabilities loving one another how much more delightful to see such affection as exists between our present hosts. Not that I think that Mrs Smith by nature kind above the common but she has unavoidably reflected some of her husband’s intellect. She does not look like a great invalid and talks, laughs and eats like other people, but she is I believe in very delicate health. We were allowed to retire soon after tea to our own room which opens from the drawing room with another outlet to the passages, the newly made improvement, and the paint is hardly dry which is rather unpleasant but very bearable on dry land. It is rather small but comfortable with two nice little beds, a chest of drawers, cupboard and table and if we are not supremely happy here it will be our own fault. The children were gone to bed so we had not the pleasure of seeing them tonight.

Wednesday 7^th – We rose at 7 almost rested and had the happiness of seeing the beautiful view from our windows which looks on the ? side of the valley and on entering the drawing room were introduced to the children. Charles James is by far the most beautiful child I ever saw. One could look at his bright intellectual , yet perfectly childish face for hours, and his light long ringlets which have never been cut are like what are sometimes put in a picture but much more beautiful than I ever thought any real childs could be. Derwent is only two and as his father says very backward in his mechanical powers for he can only say a few words but his intellect is good and he is a little darling but his face is not so uncommonly beautiful as Carlitos. The latter has all his meals in the parlour and the propriety with which he behaves is to us after the bearishness of our children something remarkable. After breakfast we walked in the garden which consists principally vineyard corridor with little flower beds along the side, all looking very dry – the boy running and jumping like any other child but obeying the least word from his father immediately – oh, what happy state of things. We went just outside the gate to a little house which they hope will be inhabitant this winter by a married sister of Mrs Smith, and the roof of which commands a view of the whole valley of the magnificence, grandeur and extent of which I had not the very smalled conception. The valley of ? Vicente is a punch bowl compared with it. The ? a pretty ravine – as to describing it, how can I but it signifies not for how can I forget it. The Port is quite on the beach and projecting out into the sea looks as if it might be washed away very easily and in order respects cannot be a nice place to live at – very hot. The Villa on the contrary looks delightful, being 5 miles up the valley and apparently in a fertile plain. La Paz is just between the two towns and in a splendid situation – it looked very pretty from our elevated station, not that it is not always so. It is not near so tiny as I expected. The passages are wide and though the rooms are not very large they are quite enough so to be quite comfortable and airy and there is a wide veranda round three sides of the house which is very cool and nice, though having been recently painted it is not so agreeable as it will be a few days hence- in short it is just what a cottage ought to be and not unworthy of its inmates, who would to be sure make a hovel appear a palace – their room and the childrens are the only ones upstairs so that the rest of the rooms, are lofty which is a great advantage and it is so delightful to have no mosquitos and very little more heat than is agreeable. Nevertheless I had rather a bad headache and lay down for some time before dinner after we had unpacked and put away our things and make ourselves comfortable, and yet I don’t feel quite at home yet, I mean with them, but I suppose I shall in a little and if I ever get over the restraint I feel in speaking to the children or before them it will be a great blessing for now it is so very awkward – before I give utterance to an idea I am obliged to think and reflect whether it has any allusion, mystical, religious or in any other way improper, for I cannot tell how far I may be allowed to go. After dinner Mr Smith asked to look at my music and after turning it over asked me to play the ? which I prepared to do without the least fear. It is very odd I should not be afraid of him for he plays nearly as well as Mr Lowe, only not in such a dignified manner and he is so extremely kind and seems actually to take pleasure in playing with me, and though I played and infinity of wrong notes – two intentionally it did not put him the least in a fever, he just said without looking away from his own part, play Blaft not sharp and then he made me play it over again with him so sweetly and several times in the slow movement he said “very well”, “very well indeed”, and when it was over he said I had a very good notion of playing and Adante and seemed to think the execution will come with practice – but I fear not. He says Clementine plays notes better than I do but it will be easier for me to play notes than it will be for her to play music. I am so glad that he is not disappointed – I mean that he had not formed any exalted ideas of my musical powers – he seems to have forgotten Mamas letters which is a great advantage. He showed me some music he had lately had from England much of which I had played over so I “to get them up again”, the prospect of which does not alarm me so much since I have discovered that he does not play very well at sight – he tried the Nocturne with me and could not manage it at all and Mr Lowe played it very respectably at one of our concerts for the first time. At about 6 when Mrs Smith proposed a walk I was surprised to find my headache vanished and in spite of a little drizzling rain, it had been threatening all day, we went down to the bottom of the garden which is terminated by a cliff overhanging the sea. The children had been with us and about us all the day as they are not allowed to be alone with the servants more than is absolutely necessary, but they were so good that it was more agreeable than not – not that they have not the faults one sees in other children – Derwet pulls the kitten by the tail and screams a little when Carlito pulls it out of his hands and runs away with it, and Carlito is generally slightly inclined to be tyrannical and Derwent to ? – but this is all so very subdued and so nothing in comparison with ordinary children who kick and scream and quarrel the whole day, that the contrast is most delightful. The education of their bodies is a uncommon and apparently as successful as of their mind and disposition – they wear little thin frocks and shifts, neck and arms quite bare and towards dusk we went to see them plunged into a tank which is the way they are washed morning and evening, summer or winter, and they enjoy it amazingly. After tea the restraint of their presence being removed we fell to talking again on education and although Mr Smith was evidently very unwell with the damp weather and the smell of paint, he talked so delightfully that we sleepy wretches felt no inclination to go to bed and were quite astonished when informed that it was past ten – certainly if it be true that the proof of the pudding is in the eating, Mr Smith theory is the very best pudding that ever was concocted.

Thursday 8^th – This morning directly after breakfast before we settled to our various occupations we witnessed the extraordinary and unwonted spectacle of a child of two years exerting his reason to subdue his temper – he had been impatient in taking the slate and pencil from Carlito who was going to draw something for him, to punish which Mrs Smith took away the pencil and the childs first impulse was naturally to cry but he immediately recollected himself and the struggle which lasted by a few moments between his resolution and his tears was the most beautiful thing of the kind I ever saw – a child learning to excert his reason and control his passions before he can speak is something marvellous – in five minutes he was quite good and had kissed his mother, Carl and us but the pencil was withheld for some time longer. Oh, that my mother could or would govern her children in the same way. With these all rebellion, all whipping and such like violent measures are over by the time the child is two years old – with those they are left to their wickedness for at least five years of their life and then occasionally the whip is used. Bella sat working with Mrs Smith in the morning and Mr Smith went out to ride though the weather is still very threatening and I fear that our projected expedition to the Canadas cannot be tomorrow. I came and wrote up this, and on going into the drawing room to eat a morsel of bread was glad to hear Mrs Smith express herself very much in favour of journal writing which so far from thinking wrong she considers highly meritorious and very improving, even if as Mrs Temple says, they do write down ridiculous absurd nonsense because they will read it with advantage in after years – indeed she is a sensible woman – I begin to think her intellect is not all reflected. Mr Smith again played with me after dinner and likes Lulu very much indeed – he gave me a very good lesson only that he was too much occupied with his own part to attend me as much as he otherwise would have done ad he says I have a good ear, which I fear is not quite true. Then he practised himself and we all sat in the passage and while I was sitting on a table talking with Carlito, Mr, Mrs and Isabelita Carpenter appeared to call on us and we proceeded to the drawing room where they sat some time and prevented our taking a walk. He is just like an English farmer, his wife like an English farmer’s wife and the daughter who is about 6ft high is a rather mixture of a vulgar English girl and an affected Spanish young lady, not that the poor girl is affected I believe but her manners are rather extraordinary. Two beautiful horses came for them for they are very rich and so they departed ad we amused ourselves watching the children playing with an unfortunate little girl who had come to pay them a visit and had on such light shoes that it was a misery to her to run and we again witnessed the ceremony of washing. I am a little getting over my fear of these exquisite children, though I still feel myself weighing my words when I talk either before them or to them, but I like talking to Carlito if it is only for the pleasure of watching his face, and his manner of talking though childish is so different from that of any other child I ever knew, though occasionally, in reading memoirs of infant geniuses, I have sometimes imagined the possibility of such a one. I doubt not if he had had the same education he would have been quite as extraordinary a prodigy as little Malkin or any of those poor little wretches who are allowed to kill themselves – certainly if this child dies of cleverness it will not be his parents fault who take every pains possible to keep him from learning and have done so for two years. Still after tea we always talk more nicely when they are gone to bed and we sit around the table. We began several other subjects and often diverged but still returned to the main point, the education of children. He seems no better today poor man but talked so exquisitely that when we though it was 9 behold it was half past ten, which seemed to surprised him as much as us, for they are always accustomed to retire much earlier.

Friday 9^th – The hills were much clearer today and Mrs Smith said it was almost a pity we had not settled to take some short ride, for tho the clouds show the violence of wind on the Peak and it is probably raining high up. Mrs Smith and I sat in the corridor and found it deliciously cool there but she was not well and talked little. Mr Smith presently came and told us he had been giving Carlito his first lesson and although he had not even questioned him on the subject since March he distinctly remembered all the parts of speech and other things which he had taught him when he was 4 years old and I am so delighted he says he will give him some of his lessons in public as I seem interested, it is will not bore me, so I shall be able to learn a little I hope of the art of teaching which Mr Smith seems to possess to an extraordinary degree, and when hw was gone out riding and Mrs Smith disappeared I read his favourite book of Dr Brighams and found it very clear and reasonable but what the man meant by saying that the English will be as long lived as the French when they are as civilized I cannot think. The way in which he explains how the mind acts through bodily organs and is affected by their over excitement is very simple and satisfactory. After dinner there came a peddlers and after a great deal of bargaining we bought two blue aprons and I left Bella to rummage over the rest of her things and came to write this, then we put on our bonnets intending to walk to the Botanic Garden but we were prevented by the arrival of Mrs and 4 Miss Golways, who seem to be the ? of Oratava. The young ladies speak English so we talked and presently went down to the sea walk and saw a glorious sunset. My rival Clementina is at first sight not prepossessing in appearance and I talked to her elder sister Mariana who seems a good-natured girl. Adriana did not seem worthy to cut out JH and I think it must be a mistake and Bernatina, a fourth sister, is just a child and played with Derwent. They were asked to stay to tea but could not, but we shall probably see a good deal of them as they are very intimate and seem perfectly at home with the Smiths and La Paz. So again we had hardly any walk and to make up for it stood for some time in the corridor looking at the moonlight and Mr Smith came and talked to me about Sharon ? who he says is a humbug, principally for attempting to prove that the world cannot be so old as some scientific man would wish to prove because we cannot forma an idea of such immensity of time – whereas Mr Smith says, time and space have both existed, not only longer than we can conceive, but from eternity – this was rather startling and even shocking, but he almost made me believe that it is so. We had, or rather they had determined to return to their accustomed habit of retiring at 9 but we became so interested that we staid up half an hour later. We talked of grammar learning and he told us that is happy son was never to learn the Latin grammar – not Latin till 12 years old – what fortunate child – and he says that I may teach Charley without knowing myself and he wants us to work a reform in the teaching altogether of our children but how can we? even Arthur is confirmed in his habits of rebellion and disobedience, and even if Mama would allow me to have entire control over him now, which she certainly would not, it would be overwhelming and difficult for me unpractised and unskilled, to bring him to a correct state of mind – of they must just take their chance as their elders have done.

Saturday 10^th - I was not very well but went into Mr Smiths study to procure the 1^st Bridgwater treatise which he says I may entirely understand. The most admirable part of Mr Smith’s character is his extreme accessibility – he seems so interested in whatever interests us and seems so anxious to improve us and that we should improve – he is a most charming man – so extremely consistent – I can see no one fault or failing in his practise there must naturally be a defect somewhere although I cannot discover it. I lay on my bed all the morning tho it is a practice Mrs Smith very much disapproves and read and understood a small portion of Dr Chalmers. After dinner Mr Smith practised ? with great diligence and turned us all out so we went and sat in the corridor doing nothing which is rather a favourite pastime here for MR Smith hates to see ladies working. I forgot to mention that I had a long practise this morning while Bella and MR Smith took a long ride round by the Villa, but we did not play together till our return from a little walk by the cliffs to a curious ravine called the Caldeira, when Mr Smith said “come Mary will you play” and we sat down and played Lulu and after tea we rushed again to the piano and played Mozarts which we neither of us knew at all, but when he was afraid of tiring his wife who hardly cares at all for music and we went and stood and stood in the corridor looking at the moon, he told me to my great joy surprise and delight that I played much better than he had hoped or expected and that it gave him very great pleasure to play with me and that now my fingers were unstiffened by a little practise he perceived that I played the notes even better than Clementina, and that I should go on improving and play extremely well in time – this certainly is the most encouraging praise I ever received and I almost begin to hope he may be right and it shall be no fault of mine if I don’t play well – and so I was very happy but was much discomposed before I retired to rest by a violent discussion we all had on Combes Constitution of Man, which when they mentioned I naturally began to abuse vehemently and they vigorously to defend. I am afraid he was a little angry at my ferocity but I could not patiently hear such unchristian principles defended and am after all not sorry I said what I did – but it makes me very unhappy to perceive that such a charming clever talented and sensible man should be so entirely wrong touching the one thing needful which he evidently takes to mean mathematics – he will believe nothing that will not admit of mathematical proof – and he of course does all in his power to make his children think him – better they should be fools.

Sunday 11^th - I went to his room and took Paleys theology. I wish I had some less reasonable book to read on Sunday in this reasonable house, but I can find none and I don’t think they have any. They sat in their room and we sat in ours to say our prayers – a slight improvement in the Hamiltons, and then we sat talking after luncheon with Mrs Smith till nearly dinner time – she having first offered to lend us a prayer book and Bible if we had not one! After dinner I came to my room and they remained talking till it was time to go out. We went to the Botanical Garden about ten minutes walk and found it in much better order than I had expected for tho rather untidy it is evidently intended to be a garden and might be made an excellent one, being large, level and apparently well provided with water. We told them a great many school anecdotes after tea which distressed them beyond measure and excited their pity and sympathy exceedingly for all poor children who, like us, were compelled to learn without understanding and to live without liberty. He says he knows but one establishment in England where the science of education is well understood and that is the new College of Bristol, of which poor man he was appointed Vice Principal and Professor of Mathematics when his health failed and he was obliged to come away from England – he spoke of this in a rather melancholy manner and always there is a shade of melancholy about him tho’ he is lively which I suppose arise from the blighting of all his worldly prospects – but his wife comforts him and then he seems better and he surely ought to be very happy and so I think he is with a wife and children that he entirely adores, he says he would not give all his mathematics for his wife’s Ideality ( he is a firm believer in Phrenology) which is immense he says, but we have not had any evidence of it yet and in general I almost wish she would let her husband talk without interruption which she constantly does with personal anecdotes and remarks that we have often heard before. Not that she is the least silly but I think on the contrary, decidedly sensible, without reflecting, but there seems to be nothing extraordinary in her, like her husband, except this poetical genius of which we only know from hearsay. We this evening avoided all the metaphysical discussions and shall of course endeavour always to do so as we agree so little in such matters, although as Mrs Smith says, I dearly love an argument. I do hope they will not corrupt us – that we shall not grow reasonable. I almost wish they were not so entire delightful.

Monday 12^th - I sat for some time before breakfast in the garden looking at the Peak which was most beautifully clear, as all the surrounding mountain. Mr Smith was all the morning tuning the piano which he did so little disagreeably that though in my room was able to read Dr Chalmers with tolerable attention and understood all but a certain part touching ? of resentments and all other feelings, affections and propensities, which on referring to Mr Smith I was comforted to find as little intelligible to him as myself. After dinner the piano being in tune we sat down to play immediately in spite of Mrs Smith ‘s remonstrances who said it was very it was very inhospitable not to let me digest my dinner in peace, and several times came in to say we had much better leave off strumming and making ourselves hot. At length we left off and put on our bonnets which Bella had been trimming with Mr Deans ribbon to walk down to “Port”. It is not a very agreeable road being steep and stony and the town not clean or pretty or in any way a desirable residence I should imagine. The Golways house is large and built in the same manner as the Santa Cruz houses but with the drawing rooms more equally divided consequently not such an ugly and uncomfortable shape. We sat some time in the smaller one drinking wine and water, eating ? and discussing the Aquamanza party, also looking at the picture of two brothers who have been absent 15 years and are now in Paris. They are respectable looking as well they may be the eldest having claims to an earldom and they are from what we hear the most good, clever and affectionate brothers that ever were. The girls too are very nice good-natured girls but do not look like “lady Mariana Clementina etc” – they took is to their turret whence there was a very fine view of the Peak and the sunset – also a more apparently to them interesting object, Mrs Smith house which however we could not see and as it was getting late Mr Smith came to take us down. Poor Mrs Smith was so tired that she would only get up the hills with the help of our united pulling and pushing and I think we must have been more than half an hour returning, though only half that time going, but she was sufficiently recovered after tea to read and repeat to us some of Wordworth who they hold to be the finest poet that ever wrote and even I though it very pretty and she does read very well though not quite simple enough. Mr Smith was in such ecstasies – he is very excitable and poetry painting and music seem to have such an equal effect upon him. Now I cant fancy any one who likes music very much liking anything else so well but he falls into raptures at the very mention of any of these. I was a little sleepy – I suppose it was the long walk.

Tuesday 13^th - It was very cloudy and cool and I walked and read some time in the garden before breakfast. Poor Derwent is suffering from his teeth just now but not the least relaxation of discipline is admitted and when he cries he is always commanded to go and hide his face which he does of course immediately and soon returns “good” and insists in kissing not only Mama and Papa but all present – he is a little darling, much more affectionate than Carlito who sometimes requires a little persuasion to give the kiss, but he is very kind to Derwent and presumes wonderfully little on his superior age and authority. He of course never cries from naughtiness but we heard of some tears being shed one day when he did not tell that he had broken a glass and received in consequence a lecture from his papa, to who he is in the habit of confessing every night when he goes upstairs after he is in bed and if he had committed any great crime or misdemeanour he is not called “my dear boy” which is a great punishment. What an enviable state of mind for children to be in – ours care for nothing under a hard whipping. Mr Smith went out to ride rather early and I practised three solid hours and again after dinner 1 or 2 with Mr Smith whose patience and kindness are extraordinary and I really required a little levity playing the ? in B for the first time. I had attempted to play the bass of it once in Madeira but without success – now if I succeed not I shall be sorry but not surprised. He talks of my knowing it in a week – impossible! It had been drizzling all the afternoon but presently cleared up sufficiently to allow of our walking with Mrs Smith on the sea walk though Mr Smith voted it too damp and besides he was packing the basket in hopes of our being able to go tomorrow and we went to bed early in the same hope not till after as nice conversation as usual. He says he wants he wants to work very hard while we are here and does not think us inclined to be lazy and is gals I have attacked music so vigorously. Mrs Smith begs him not to persuade us bit I am very glad he thinks it worth while.

Wednesday 14^th - We were left to sleep in peace till 7 o’clock for the rain pouring. I don’t much care we can go another day and I shall be able to practice. – which I did – Bella drawing with Mrs Smith working and Mr Smith riding. After dinner I read Gonzals with Carlitos help and found it wonderfully easy to understand till interrupted by a visit from Mr & Mrs Tom Colloghan and Marion who is a distant relation. He is the owner of La Paz and having lived in Paris is rather a gentlemanly man, and talks English tolerably – Laura is even as she is a very fine and handsome woman and if she had shared her husband’s advantages might have been anything. I read a little to Mariana who is of course complimented me immensely and after they were gone Mr Smith rushed to the piano and made me play his B till the envious tea interrupted us and after it we could not continue as the weather seemed so decidedly changed that they made up their minds to go tomorrow and consequently had much to do in the way of sending to hammock men and Golways and packing baskets and we retired early.

Thursday 15^th - A fine day and we were called at 5.20 . Breakfast over by half past 6 but there were so many delays that we were not off till 8. No horse was to be procured for the Galways and Mr Smith after riding down to Port could only get a donkey for Mariana. We had another long delay at the Drags where we stopped to take Isabelita Carpenter and have a saddle changed, and were introduced to a number of younger sisters who in ugliness rival the brothers in Madeira but they are all very good-natured except a baby brat who squalled incessantly. We at length at 9 o’clock were fairly on our way ( we had intended to be off by 5) and now begun the horrors of the way. I never was so frightened on horseback before and I hope never to be so frightened again. Our way was principally through ‘? – very fine I doubt not, also the mountains before and around us, but nothing could I see or think of but the steep slippery rocks that the little unfortunate pony was breaking over, and the extreme unpleasantness of tumbling down breaking my arm and not being able to play ? any more. Conversation was of course out of the question and we reached the residence of the Marquesa de la Candia at 11 o’clock, in silence – and most happy were to be so arrived but unfortunately now that the clouds thickened all round and we could see nothing but just the chestnut trees that surrounded us and which are some of them rather fine. The is dirty, small and uncomfortable – not a very suitable residence one would think for a Marqueza, and though abundantly supplied with water and apparently fertile enough altho0 more than 3000 feet above sea level, the grounds are hardly cultivated and in a very untidy condition. Mr Smith had staid behind to take care of his wife in her hammock and of course of the water we saw running about in all directions and which supplies the town and is called the Aqua Mansa – after a rather steep ascent of about half an hour we arrived at a fine view of the valley, which all the higher mountains being enveloped in mist somewhat resembled the view from above the Mount with all the Mounts in the foreground. The clouds were very provoking for the views of the mountains all around would evidently have been splendid and we could see nothing of them and were even obliged to give up the source as we should assuredly had our trouble for nothing. We should have had a perfect day if we had started as we intended. As it was not time for dinner when we returned Mr Smith and I and the two young ladies by way of something to do went to see a tank at some distance and in so doing made ourselves extremely wet and dirty and saw nothing but some curious rocks called the organos from their similarity to an organ. As soon as things could be got ready after dinner we set forth homeward at about 3 for it was very wet and drizzling and nothing more to be seen and we wished to be home before dark put they took us over a little better road and either in consequence of this or the quality of the Marqueza’s wine we had been compelled to drink we were not nearly so frightened and I was quite astonished to find myself at the Villa which is a very picturesque place and as little like a town as may be. The clouds too had much cleared away and the hills looked very pretty. We went on the Drags to deposit Isabelita and had there the comfort of washing our hands and drinking more wine also some – biscuits were give to us so that we were much ? and refreshed by the time we mounted our horses again to return home which we did soon after 6 wonderfully little tired considering, but nevertheless glad to retire soon after tea. We certainly must not be tired with this for Mr Smith says the journey to the Canadas is three times as far, three as steep, three time as bad.

Friday 16^th - My mornings are very regularly spent. Dr Chalmers for an hour or two while Mr Smith is wandering about and perhaps playing, and when he goes out practice till dinner after which we quickly go on playing in spite of Mrs Smith’s entreaties that he will not persecute me. The good lady not being fond of music cannot conceive it possible for anyone to play 4 or 5 hours ? without feeling persecuted. Today I was particularly stupid and very miserable and the bare look of the ? was like the Peak before me but Mr Smith’s patience never failed and we were going over the Scherzo for the 4^th or 5^th time when interrupted by visitors, two gentleman, one of whom talked in a most fatiguingly animated manner but went away in a tolerable short time but the other made a tremendous visitation and when he departed it was too late for us to go much further than the garden. In the evening Mr Smith brought forth no end of which he says I am to play, but I am sure I can’t at least for 6 years. The others laughed at and abused us for talking so much about Scherzos, of which my head is certainly very full.

Saturday 17^th - I went into Mr Smiths room by special invitation to assist at Carlito’s lessons on the Arithmaticon and was much charmed with his perfect understanding of everything he was taught but whether I can ever make Charley so understand is doubtful – anyhow I must try and Mr S is going to get me a machine made for he is very much interested and so distressed at the melancholy state of education in the house and talked to me some time after he had sent away the boy on the folly of one system of education especially the teaching to pronounce goat go-at and so on which is a manifest absurdity but convinced as I am of all this I fear I shall be able to do no good, with so many counteracting influences constantly at work. Again 5 hours hard practice and today it went a little better and I felt better. Clementina and Mariana called and after sitting some time in the corridor we went with them on their way leaving Mrs Smith behind, she being still fatigue with her expedition. I still cannot admire Clementina and she doesn’t look as if she could play Beethoven but they are very nice girls. We have lately been discussing conversation of which it is their opinion that foolish talking is better than none at all which we hold the reverse and this evening we discussed the subject a little more at length. I fancy they introduced it slightly for my benefit for they say I don’t give myself ? to talk generally altho’ particularly I can and will. I do wish I could talk more – it’s a great pity – but its stupidity not laziness for indeed I don’t know how to talk properly about things in general and I am very sorry because it makes them dislike me I am afraid and I see that Mr Smith does not think half as well of me as he did – but patience – I like him quite as well – only wish he were good.

Sunday 18^th - They in their room we in ours till dinner time and the children playing in the corridor. They must wonder why they are always left alone on Sunday – but it seems ask no questions that would be hard to answer. Brougham & Bella Faleys Natural Theology arrived with other society books from the Paula Cruz division and Mr Smith brought the for me to look at by a Mrs Hewet of Mr Distons house – a thorough bore – he went with us to the botanical garden where we staid some time and then on the sea walk, and when we returned to the house to our great astonishment he returned too and sat down although the lamp was already in the drawing room but they gave him such a very unpressing invitation to tea that he happily did not stay the evening. He gave us however some very good news i.e. that there are to be steamers regularly every month between England, Madeira and Tenerife which will be charming. They entertained or rather interested us after tea with an account of an agony of three weeks which they suffered before they were married when he was travelling abroad and forgot to write to her to say he should not be in England so soon as he had intended and she consequently expecting him and almost thinking of ordering mourning in the belief that he had been murdered by Spanish bandits. The very recollection of her misery made her weep bitterly. It certainly was very wicked of him but they both comfort themselves with knowing that such a thing could not happen now – they do love one another.

Monday 19^th - I wrote to Mama before breakfast and Bella finished the letter immediately after that it might go per post to Mr Hamilton to await the steamer. I practised and after dinner read Gonzals till Mr Smith called me to play, but we had only a little of ? being speedily summoned to walk we went again to the Caldeira and Mrs Smith being obliged to return with Derwent Carlito walked with me and was very agreeable. Mr Smith walked with us afterwards on the sea walk and we entertained him with anecdotes of Mrs Parkers establishment which of course excited even more horror and indignation, than those of Mrs Magareys – they seem so extremely interested and express so much sympathy with our sufferings – they are certainly charming people and yet we are growing a little stupid , at least I am for they seem to dislike me and that frightens me so that I cannot talk and them I am afraid again that they will be angry with me. After tea we began what Mr Smith had long been proposing reading aloud, and he and I read each a chapter of Sir Joshua Reynolds Discourses, which tho’ not very applicable to any one present were interesting.

Tuesday 20^th - Mr Smith was all day kept at home to do a table the lady is going to paint but I was obliged to practise nevertheless and found it very uncomfortable as he was continually coming within hearing and occasionally into the room, once to tell me I was playing a sharp instead of Ab. The Weather was threatening so we did not go far but walked and down the sea walk, he talking to me about what will happen to the soul after death, till we came in, and played a little before tea. Again Sir J.R.

Wednesday 21^st - In the garden before breakfast. I had a headache all day and did not improve it by studying Chalmers which I did till Mr Smith scolded me for not playing as he was still engaged with the table but after dinner played a little with me. Poor Mrs Smith had a dreadful headache but insisted on taking some ? to enable her to go down to Port with us to return the visits of the Cologans and Cullens who were both out, also to a shop where we bought some black silk for a cravat for Mr Smith and aprons for us and them to the Gallweys where we staid to tea. While Mr Smith went home with Carlito the girls took us to their room which was scattered all about with books, work and drawing materials in such profusion as to shew that if not very tidily they were at least industriously inclined and Mariana’s flowers shew that she would draw very well if she had but instruction, poor girl. They have two book cases principally filled with such works as the Memoirs de Grammont, the Mont etc, but some more correct of which we borrowed some of Mdames. De Stael & Genlis. We went into tea in the dining room and had a meal much in the English fashion, for they have a great affection for everything English, and on returning to the drawing room, after I had played a waltz, Mr Smith and Clementina played two Sinfonias, everyone talking and I turning over the leaves – she plays the notes very well indeed, much more correctly than I, and her touch is not sledghehammery, but of taste she has apparently not very much – still, she plays very well. We returned home before ten, they begging us to go there again very often.

Thursday 22^nd - We had heard yesterday of Mr Smith arrival in the Gen Evens at Santa Cruz, having touched at Madeira, and this morning a large parcel of letters, and another of stockings, were given us. The people have all been most virtuous and from Papa to Clara have written us long letters. Mama’s by the by contains something rather unintelligible but we cannot hope for an explanation till we see her and then I do hope there will be made a satisfactory one. They sailed in the Agina but nothing had been heard of them since which is slow we learn from Eliza, who gives Bella good advice, which I hope she may be allowed to follow, Poor Marion writes in a most melancholy strain at 12 o’clock at night and shivering with cold, and very miserable, poor child. I wish I were there to comfort her. Fanny Tripp also gives us an account of their proceedings and the people in England have been equally meritorious. Arabella has written to me and not to Marion, who she mentions in a very patronizing way, oh, the humbug there is in this world! Anne Evans and C.J. Thomas, all particularly nice and affectionate. Kitty writes to Bella and is not coming till next year. Her manner of life is not calculated I should imagine to raise her spirits. Grandmama being at Eton, Aunt Fanny and she sit in their separate any young friends that she is afraid to cultivate Fanny Wrights Acquaintance with she would willingly do, as I daresay she would not be sorry were it decided she should come home immediately. Anne still says a good deal of the same George Lloyd now the trio but has not received my letters making enquiries and she is much disturbed at hearing from Mr Picken of my stateliness and reserve, of which she cannot conceive the possibility. Bella has also letters from Sophy Sheppard and Miss Mitchell so we have evidently no reason to complain and our heap of letters created much envy in Mr Smith mind for they had none. the reading and discussing of certain mysterious parts of these occupied us till 11 when I practised and after dinner read Coombes Physiology, a book recommended to me by Mr Picken and which I had long wished to read, till the arrival at 5 of a fiddle tenor and violoncello from the Villa with whom Mr Smith played a quartet of Beethoven and two of Mozart – very pretty and very respectably played considering it was the first time, and quite enough so to bring our Fridays vividly to our minds and then we played the Septet, I very ill but well enough to put Mr Smith in a better humour with me than he has been, or I have fancied he has been for some days. They would not stay to tea but departed soon after 8 and we soon after 9.

Friday 23^rd - Very pleasant in the garden but the thick clouds on the hills look too threatening for us to think of going to the as we had intended tomorrow. Nevertheless it was decided in the afternoon that we could and should go, and as Mr Smith was busy making preparations of various kinds I sat working for some time with Mrs Smith for the first time since I have been here and she told me some rather interesting anecdotes and then we walked a little.

Saturday 24^th - We were fairly under weigh this morning at half past four, having a torch to light us which however did not give enough light to make the badness of the roads – so evident as by day and I was not nearly so frightened, especially as I was mounted on a much stronger and larger pony. We got into the clouds after sunrise and found it very cold although immensely wrapped up and Mr Smith in a blanket was shivering. After clambering till half past 8 and having for some time emerged from the clouds we stopped to breakfast and relieve ourselves of our numerous encumbrances as the sun soon became oppressive and having refreshed and reseated ourselves we proceeded on our way, being still 2 hours ride from the edge of the range of mountains whence we were to look down upon the Canadas or palins and before we reached this point an accident befell me. Mr Smith and I were riding on upon a level to look at a view, and the beast I was upon being very hard mouthed and excited was very unmanageable and jumped about in a manner rather unpleasant and galloping furiously so that it presently became evident to me that I should soon tumble and so I did for I couldn’t help myself and soon found myself in a rather awkward position, sprawling on the stony ground with my foot stuck tight in the stirrups and the wicked beast dragging me along in the direction of a precipice and kicking at me when Mr Smith hearing a noise had dismounted and was coming to my assistance. Most fortunately at this moment the stirrup leather gave way and I was released much to my satisfaction and on shaking myself I was surprised and delighted to find that I had no bones broken or other injury my head a little shaken and my leg a little hurt by the kick. Bella rode back for the Arieiro to catch his horse which he speedily effected and we then, forgetting the view we had gone to see, proceeded on foot to the furthest part of the ridge of mountains closely surrounding the Peak and which were formerly the boundary of a huge crater. From this point of view I was quite satisfied with the Peak – it looked quite big enough and magnificent and yet the practicability of ascending it seemed to me much greater than it did before and Mr Smith from our agility in clambering down some rocks and into a ? cave where certainly no ladies had ever been before, whence also we procured some horses, thinks there is no doubt of our being able to do it. But then poor man his chest will not allow him to – at least his wife wont – which is a bore – we mounted again when we got down to the Canadas and galloped along them at the base of the Peak till between 1- 2 when we stopped to rest under the most grateful shade of a great bush that kindly grew in the desert, for the heat of the sun was intense and made us so sick that we could eat nothing but lay quietly and reposed for near an hour while Mr Smith’s devoured and gave us wine which made us rather timpsy (?) wine is a bad thing in a long broiling journey. Before 3 we were off again and ascending from the Carioda turned our backs on the Peak and proceeded on our way homewards by a much better road than we had come, but a rather uninteresting one for soon entered the clouds which we certainly found very cool and comfortable and so could not even see the wide extent of bare and barren rocks and plains that surrounded us. We stopped once on the way homewards, dismounting to drink some milk procured from some goats we met, and then very tired we went on again and reached the valley and Nealijo before sunset, so that we had a tolerable view of just the valley on again emerging from the clouds although the mountains were of course which was a pity, covered with mist, it being a good level road we went rather quickly the last 7 or 8 miles, not that I much like galloping after my disaster, and to our great delight reached La Paz before 7, having performed the journey of 50 miles in about 14 hours, only 2 of which we had rested, and yet were not tired, at least not the least knocked up and after drinking some tea we staid up some time relating our adventures to Mrs Smith who was more frightened at the hearing of my fall than any of us had been at the perpetration of it and they both laughed at me, the danger being over, for my coolness in saying to Mr Smith when he in the greatest anxiety asked me if I was hurt “ I don’t think I’m hurt. I believe I was not nearly so frightened as he but it really is not my fault that I am not nervous and excitable – it’s a great misfortune but evidently no fault of mine – but he was very kind to me and my silence could not be reprimanded, as I was expressly ordered to keep back alone.

Sunday 25^th - The post came in but with no letters. We had hoped to receive letters per Packet which arrived some days since. Its very bad of them not to write to us poor exiles but I suppose nothing had happed save the coming in of the Florence. Being still very stiff we lay on our beds nearly all the day emerging from our rooms only for meals and in the afternoon to take a tolerably long walk during which we entered a house and bought some apples, and went into some caves the residence of an old man and family who excavated them and cultivated a piece of ground redeemed from the road which the proprietor of the next field now wishes to take from him –not just. Mr Smith was upbraiding us all the way in an indirect manner for our want of liveliness, which he is much given to doing. Poor wretches that we are, how can we help our nature and constitution. I’m sure I do my best. I excerpt myself to the utmost to talk but all the exertion in my power cannot make me lively so they oughtn’t to scold me especially as I do my best and in the evenings sometimes when they talk nicely I do grow rather animated, and I cannot help my inability to remember and tall about things – our way of life was principally discussed this evening. Mr Smith says I can learn nothing in an hour per day and that at my age I ought to study at least 3 – what would the mother say? And that we ought to walk two hours, and moreover to be very regular in the arrangement of our time. I wish we could do this, but its no use wishing – and he says as I have a bad memory I ought to make notes when I read wishing but that I cant in an hour of ? the idea of Bella being 20 today is quite horrific.

Monday 26^th - I finished Dr Chalmers and was much pleased therewith – beautiful sentiments, eloquent writings and tolerably clear, sometimes very clear arguing. Bella not being well I was disturbed from my practise at 12 to ride with Mr Smith to the Deepa – Dr Smith future residence – rather a nice little place , very clean and comfortable. In the intervals of cantering we discussed Newton and he says he will make me understand Bell and Broughams analysis better than Dr Bartlet who said “oh, that’s easy enough”. We also talked of Mr Langford and he expressed great disapprobation of the evangelical sect – also of the schools of which he thinks it highly unreasonable of people to disapprove on the ground of the religion there taught for what right have people of our religion to interfere with that of others? All religions apparently being of nearly the same value in his opinion – except the evangelical. We played in C minor almost at sight and of course I made a most dreadful murderation, but we laughed a great deal as wasn’t cross – he was obliged to write to Santa Cruz so Mr Smith and I went to walk with the children and I after tea read a discourse of Sir Joshua which met with various interruption.

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